YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby winston » Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:08 am

torque wrench, repair manual.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:22 am

winston wrote:torque wrench, repair manual.

I have those things and you guys for backup!
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:52 pm

wayne c wrote:
winston wrote:torque wrench, repair manual.

I have those things and you guys for backup!

What about the special tool to remove the piston liner? Where do you get those??
What kind of waterproof paint is needed for the sleeves??
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Arnold » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:49 pm

You can make your own puller using pieces of aluminum and an all thread rod. There is a picture of the puller in the manual. Don't believe the sleeves have a waterproof paint. The antifreeze should protect the sleeve from corrosion.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:17 pm

How do you get the injectors out if they are tight. The one on the left came out just by twisting it back & forth with a wrench. I checked spray pattern and it was good. The other one will not come out that way. As a matter of fact the top unscrewed while I was trying to twist it back and forth. Is there an injector puller or is that something I can make?
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Aaron » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:32 pm

We made a remover that basically screws into the base of the injector and pulls it out. This is the only way we have found to remove them without damaging them. We should have more back in stock in about a week. Our lathe broke down so we had to stop selling our pullers and compression testers for a while until we could get more made.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:43 pm

Aaron wrote:We made a remover that basically screws into the base of the injector and pulls it out. This is the only way we have found to remove them without damaging them. We should have more back in stock in about a week. Our lathe broke down so we had to stop selling our pullers and compression testers for a while until we could get more made.

How do I order these items??
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Norm » Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:21 pm

I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:38 pm

Norm wrote:I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.

You mean losen the nuts and turn the motor over to blow it out?
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Norm » Wed Jul 14, 2010 6:09 am

wayne c wrote:
Norm wrote:I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.

You mean losen the nuts and turn the motor over to blow it out?


yep
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:31 pm

Norm wrote:
wayne c wrote:
Norm wrote:I have read of several guys that have removed stuck injectors by just loosening the retaining nuts and blowing them loose with compression, but I was criticised mercilessly on another forum for even mentioning it. Never found out what the objection was, but it makes sense to me.

You mean losen the nuts and turn the motor over to blow it out?


yep


It did not work.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Norm » Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:24 am

No need to go further until you can test compression on the 1 cylinder.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby wayne c » Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:16 pm

Norm wrote:No need to go further until you can test compression on the 1 cylinder.

Is there anything I have to do to the head before replacing it on the block after the piston job? Does it have to be milled?? Any pointers on what not to do when removing everything? I am thinking like you said it is the compression on #1 cylinder. I loosened the injector on #2 Cylinder and it popped right out when I turned the motor over as was stated in a previous answer.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby winston » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:36 pm

Not having a head problem would indicate your head is probably OK. After you clean it up real good use an accurate straight edge across the head and a feeler gage checking for warp. If you have a manual it will show how to do this. Straight down each side and then angled across both directions. 220 manual calls for .001" new and up to .004" used. If it exceeds this or you see any possible problem with valves or seats you would want to take it to a head shop. May not be necessary but I like to put my push rods back in the same position they came out. I'm pretty particular in placing parts in an order to aid in reassembly. Some take pictures as they proceed. You can do it without a manual but if this is your first head job I would advise a manual for you.
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Re: YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

Postby Carey » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:32 pm

I would take the head to a machine shop.Not telling you how to Do your Donkey but there is alot more to checking out the head than just cleaning it up and checking to see of it's warped. For example you could have a carbon buildup on the Valves that won't let them seat properly. Worn Valves or Valve Guides ETC. that you would have to disassemble it to clean or replace. They would most likely Vat it to remove any build up in the PORTS Intake or Exhaust that you can't get to most likely.And check to make sure it's not cracked. Well worth the extra peace of mind knowing you won't have any problems with the Top End. :wink:

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