YM1500 WILL NOT RUN

[wayne c]

OK I just recieved your injector removal kit #IP-4450. Is there suppose to be something besides a slidehammer with a threaded end that makes up this kit. If not it does not fit my injectors. The threads are too large to screw into the top of the injector. I didn't know if since it is a kit if there were various adapters that are suppose to come with it. I took the top off the injector and removed the spring but the remover will not screw into the injector because it is too large. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

[waynec]

[quote="wayne c"]OK I just recieved your injector removal kit #IP-4450. Is there suppose to be something besides a slidehammer with a threaded end that makes up this kit. If not it does not fit my injectors. The threads are too large to screw into the top of the injector. I didn't know if since it is a kit if there were various adapters that are suppose to come with it. I took the top off the injector and removed the spring but the remover will not screw into the injector because it is too large. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!![/quote]
Never mind I figured it out. By removing the retainer studs I could get the lower half unscrewed.The remover works well in that part. I know what everyone is thinking "what a dumb#$#@. Live and learn I guess.

[winston1]

I wasn't thinking that atall. I didn't have a clue. I was waiting on Aaron to give us the low down. Now we know.

[Carey]

Welp I have a good feeling what you said to yourself after it came out.I seen your post about it. I didn't have a clue about it either

[Aaron]

Sorry for the late reply. There should have been an instruction sheet included with the kit. Was it not in there? Glad you got it figured out.

[waynec]

[quote="Aaron"]Sorry for the late reply. There should have been an instruction sheet included with the kit. Was it not in there? Glad you got it figured out.[/quote]
No. There was nothing with it.It was just rolled up in lots of brown paper with the other items I ordered. At least the other guys made me feel a little better by not knowing also. After I studied the break down photo in the manual I came to the conclusion that I had to somehow get the lower half off but the studs were in the way.I got them out by locking the two nuts together on the top of the studs and backing them out with a socket.
I thought maybe it was like a toothbrush that I should know what to do with it. Anyway it worked well and I got the stubborn injector removed and it seems to test out allright.Now that I have removed it, it also will pop out simply by turning the motor over. Any updates on when the compression adapters will be available? I still have one on back order and would like to check it out prior to rebuilding so that I would have a before and after comparison on the compression. I have about decided it has to be done but would like to make sure prior to the expense and effort. I have learned alot in the last several weeks. Thanks to everyone who has replied with either information or encouragement.

[Aaron]

We are not sure what to do about out compression testers. The lathe finally broke that we use to turn the adapters down and I just cant justify buying another one just for that one purpose. I have the tester "blanks" ready but they just need to be turned down a little to fit the specific tractors. If you have a friend with a lathe then we would be happy to sell the kit to you & you could finish them. Just an option.

[waynec]

I just took off the valve cover and noticed there was a lot of crusty like black material around the #2 cylinder valves. It was only on that side. I washed it out with WD40 so it wasn't like stuckor burned on. also noticed the last valve seemed loose compared to the other three. Anything wierd about this?? After adjusting the valve I put it back together and it cranked and ran for a long time. I actually had to shuit it off myself. It still doesn't idle up likeit did so I am still looking at a ring job I quess. There was still smoke and oil coming from thr "blow by" tube, but not as much as before so the valve may have had something to do about that.

[waynec]

Well I tore the engine down Saturday and discovered my problems.
1) The rod bearing was gone off the #2 cylinder. I had to polish up the crankshaft where the rod had scored it.
2) The piston and ring were broken on the #1 cylinder where the #2 ring sits.
I have honed out the cylinder walls which amazingly were not demolished.
I am looking forward to getting it back together.
I knew it was bad when I removed the oil pan and all those metal shavings were in there. It looked like shreded tin foil. Is that normal or could someone riged something up just long enough to sell it?? Also what would have busted the piston on #1 cylinder. Seems odd it would run for the time I had it before it went down like this. Any iideas out there???????????

[winston1]

If you haven't you might want to mic the crankshaft to make sure it's ok, sounds like just scratched a little. Once a bearing starts self destructing it can make metal flakes quickly. It is interesting the broken piston is not the same cylinder as the bad rod bearing. Wondering if anybody ever used starting fluid on it. Whole thing is sort of mysterious but I'm glad you have went deep enough to get a good fix.

[Norm]

How long have you had the tractor? Buy from private owner, dealer, any warranty, even good will from seller. You are looking at a few hundred $ in parts.

[waynec]

[quote="winston1"]If you haven't you might want to mic the crankshaft to make sure it's ok, sounds like just scratched a little. Once a bearing starts self destructing it can make metal flakes quickly. It is interesting the broken piston is not the same cylinder as the bad rod bearing. Wondering if anybody ever used starting fluid on it. Whole thing is sort of mysterious but I'm glad you have went deep enough to get a good fix.[/quote]


Do i need to pull the crankshaft and have it milled. Is there anyway I could get it out of round with emory cloth only???

[waynec]

[quote="Norm"]How long have you had the tractor? Buy from private owner, dealer, any warranty, even good will from seller. You are looking at a few hundred $ in parts.[/quote]


I have had it for 4 months and put 14 hours on it. Bought it from an individual as is so no recourse other than learning how to fix it myself to keep the cost down. If I could have found someone to fix it I probably would have gone that route, but now I am so far into it I don't see backing out now.

[winston1]

The crankshaft is probably ok. If you check diminsions with a micrometer you are looking for it to be perfectly round. Crankshafts can obtain a flat spot if run long enough with a bad bearing. Doesn't sound like your situation, just thinking it might be easy to check while you are at the point you are at. A fine emory cloth will not damage your crank. Good idea to polish it a little.

[waynec]

[quote="winston1"]The crankshaft is probably ok. If you check diminsions with a micrometer you are looking for it to be perfectly round. Crankshafts can obtain a flat spot if run long enough with a bad bearing. Doesn't sound like your situation, just thinking it might be easy to check while you are at the point you are at. A fine emory cloth will not damage your crank. Good idea to polish it a little.[/quote]


The crank shaft measures 1.9575 while the rod measures 2.0665 inside diameter without the bearings. Had to use a digital caliper since I don't have a micrometer.