Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

This is the place to ask questions about your mower, loader, blade, etc. All brands welcome! Brought to you by TractorPartsCentral.com

Moderator: Aaron

Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby fishslab » Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:36 pm

I just picked up a Yanmar RS1303 tiller to pull behind my YM1820D. Does anyone have any information on this tiller or any tips for pulling a Yanmar tiller?
DSCF2005.JPG
DSCF2005.JPG (80.65 KiB) Viewed 118 times
DSCF2006.JPG
DSCF2006.JPG (86.29 KiB) Viewed 118 times
fishslab
 
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:15 pm
Location: IL

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby winston » Fri Jul 02, 2010 8:14 pm

I have an RS1300 I pull behind a 2002D. Good match. My tiller looks very similar to yours. I use mine with 3 point lift, had to fabricate a short top link to get proper distance from rear wheels. It's a working dude. Mine didn't have the gage wheels, I fabricated some but they really aren't necessary, the three point will control depth real well.
winston
 
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:29 am

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby fishslab » Sat Jul 03, 2010 7:34 pm

I have a few questions for anyone who may know. Are you supposed to let the rear flap just dangle and drag or do you tie it up out of the way. What 3 point speed should this be run at? Are the tines that come on them ok for tilling packed dirt? Is there any rhyme or reason on placement of the tines? There is a diagram on the rear of the tiller, but it's not real easy to understand in Japanese. What oil should be used in the chain case and gear case?
fishslab
 
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:15 pm
Location: IL

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby winston » Sun Jul 04, 2010 6:25 am

The rear flap usually has chains or rods attached for some adjustment on the flap but yes, the flap just floats to keep dirt from flying. I use 90 weight oil in mine. 540 pto speed, however I confess in soft ground I sometimes go to next speed up with lower engine rpm to pulverize ground a little more. These tillers will break hard dirt but I break my ground with a turning plow first. I plan on replacing my tines when they start breaking. That is going to be my rhyme or reason. Another attempt to shown picture of chains holding back flap.
Attachments
100_2154.JPG
100_2154.JPG (182.81 KiB) Viewed 94 times
winston
 
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:29 am

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby fishslab » Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:57 pm

Alrighty, I got a drive shaft for the tiller. My top link was just fine. I removed the gauge wheels and did some tilling. For the small amount I was able to do, I found it best to be in 1st gear and second on the shuttle shift with about 2300 rpm. This was on hard soil. With two passes it was about 3 1/2 to 4 inches deep. Now here are my questions. Does that sound about right? How full should the chain case be?(there's no dip stick) I want to till my whole yard, apx 3/4 acre, and replant the grass. Mine's in real bad shape. Should I seed then till or till, seed then till again?
fishslab
 
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:15 pm
Location: IL

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby winston » Wed Jul 07, 2010 9:13 pm

Again, my rs1300 looks very similar to yours. Mines has a dipstick on the gearbox where the PTO shaft goes in. the correct level on the dipstick puts the oil level appx 3/4" up from the bottom of the pipe housing going outward from gearbox. I also have a fill plug located on the gear housing going down to the tine shaft. That may be the difference in out tillers. Mine is not a chain drive, it is gear driven. Looking at your picture I'm thinking I might see a plug on top of your housing. If like mine, the level should be that same 3/4" above bottom of pipe housing. I believe gear housing and PTO housing oil reservoir are all connected with no seal between but I wouldn't go to court and testify about it. As far as speed I'm not familiar with the shuttle shift. I just know I use a slow speed when tilling unless ground is already real loose. I would try slowing as much as needed to till as deep as I wanted in one pass. Really don't have any advice concerning how you plant but am curious what grass are you planting? Good luck to you. :D
winston
 
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:29 am

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby fishslab » Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:17 am

My PTO housing does not have a dipstick either. It may have at one time, it just has a threaded plug in it now. I used a stick to check that oil. It was about 3/4 full and decent looking oil. The "chain case" housing on the side has a check plug with no dip stick. You could not get one in there anyway. They don't share the same fluid on mine, so there must a be a seal or two in the system. I say chain case because I'm pretty sure I can see links in the fill whole, plus there are only two protrusions on the outside of the case, one at the top and one at the bottom. This indicates to me that there is a shaft at the top and bottom with none in between. The only thing that could turn them would be a chain. I'm not taking it apart just to find out. Before I used it, I dumped two to 3 quarts of 90w in it and it didn't fill it up, but it did not come pouring out any where else either. I didn't know if I should fill it to the top or not. I figured with that much oil in it, it won't burn up either way.
fishslab
 
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:15 pm
Location: IL

Re: Yanmar RS1303 Tiller

Postby winston » Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:43 am

Sounds right to me. Your pictures of chain case look different from mine so I guess the 1303 is a chain drive and the 1300 a gear drive. Learn something new every day. My gear housing stays full from bottom up to part way on top gear so like you say to much oil is bound to be better than not enough.
winston
 
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Feb 01, 2010 7:29 am


Return to Implements

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest