YANMAR LOADER INSTALL
INTERVAL - NEW
TIME REQUIRED - 4 TO 10 HOURS

A Koyker loader on a Yanmar tractor is, quite possibly, the most usefull tool you will ever use. You can get asround in tight spaces, it has adequate lifting ability, and it can be removed quickly if you do not need it.

This install is rated at 5 stars due to the cutting and welding of some models. Some tractors use a direct bolt on kit that will be closer to 3 to 4 stars. Contact your dealer for more information about kits for your tractor.

Please note- this is not intended to provide all of the necessary installation information. We can not show all of the necessary instructions nor the instructions for every tractor model. Always read the instructions that came with your loader. Your loader may attach differently.

What you will need (minimum):

Here is a scetch of the way the valve will be plumbed in. The best way, however is to cut into the pressure line coming from the pump. Then use the included compression fittings to splice the loader valve into the system.

The belly brackets for the loader will bolt in the two free horizontal holes in the flywheel housing and in the two free vertical holes through the frame and into the engine block . You may need to loosen the hydraulic lines in order to get the bracket behind them.

Because of its compact size, the front bracket will be installed INSTEAD of the stock bumber on this YM1510. This will require cutting and welding. This is not required for most models. Most will bolt on to the 4 holes in the bumper.

Attach the quick disconnect brackets to the belly bracket and slip the loader frame into the slots. (This is a great place to smash your fingers because everything is extremely heavy and awkward. This is where the Band-Aids come in! )Pin the loader in place.

Slip the front stabilizer bar into the bracket on the bumper and bolt the other end to the loader frame using the included 8 bolts and the lineup tool..On our 1510, this is where we positioned the new bracket and welded it into place.

Bolt the hydraulic control valves to the loader frame and connect the hoses to the corresponding colors. You may need to gently pry the steel lines out in order to screw the fittings together.

Locate the hydraulic pressure line (small line) along the frame. Use the tubing cutter to cut out a section of the small, high pressure side of the line in a place where you can get to easily. Remove all of the paint about 1" back from the cut ends and tighten the compression fittings on both ends of the steel line. You may need to remove the line or loosen it from the pump. To do this you may also need to remove the fender and step.

Locate the end of the small line that comes from the pump (this is the pressure line) and use the hydraulic hose that along with the quick disconnect couplings that came with the kit to hook it into the inlet side of the control valve.(See diagram at the top of the page). Hook up the return (the other end of the steel line that you cut) to the return side of the valve.

Check the loader for leaks and check that everything is tight. You may need to add an extra 1/2 to 1 gallon of oil in order to get the oil a little over the full line so that the loader has sufficient oil capacity.

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